What chain fits a Stihl MS 250?
A Stihl MS 250 is most often fitted with a .325-inch pitch, .063-inch (1.6 mm) gauge chain, with the drive-link count set by the bar, around 67 drive links on a 16-inch bar and about 72 to 74 on an 18-inch bar. Because Stihl has sold the saw in several bar setups, always confirm from your own bar before buying.The MS 250 is one of Stihl's most popular homeowner saws, a roughly 45cc machine sold with 16 and 18-inch bars, which is exactly why so many owners search for the right replacement chain. The safe approach is to read your saw's actual specs rather than assume, because a chain that is one size off simply will not run. For the general rules behind these numbers, see the full chainsaw chains guide.
A common source of confusion is that "MS 250" on its own does not name a single chain — the saw has shipped in different regions and years with different bar and sprocket combinations. The powerhead is the same, but the chain is decided by the bar and sprocket fitted to your particular saw, which is why two owners with the same model number can correctly run different loops. Treat the bar stamp on your saw as the authority, not a forum post about someone else's MS 250.
Why does the MS 250 come in more than one chain size?
The MS 250 appears with more than one chain size because Stihl has fitted it with both .063 and .050-inch gauge bars, and with .325-inch or 3/8-inch low-profile sprockets, depending on market and year. The powerhead accepts whichever bar-and-sprocket set was installed, so the fitted parts, not the model name, decide the chain.This matters because gauge and pitch are set by the hardware bolted to your saw. If a previous owner replaced the bar, or you bought the saw in a region that specced a different setup, the chain that fits is the one that matches the current bar and sprocket — not the "standard" figure. The practical consequence is simple: never order an MS 250 chain by model name alone. Read the pitch and gauge stamped on the bar, count the drive links, and match those, because the same saw badge can hide a .325/.063 setup on one machine and a 3/8 P/.050 setup on another.
How do you find the exact chain for your MS 250?
Find the exact chain by reading the stamp on your guide bar and counting the drive links on your current chain. The bar stamp prints the pitch and gauge, and the drive-link count sets the length, so those three numbers together identify the correct loop with no guesswork.Do not rely on bar length alone, because a 16-inch bar can take different drive-link counts depending on the pitch and bar model. The steps below get you the right three numbers.
- Read the pitch and gauge stamped near the base of the guide bar.
- Lay the old chain out and count every drive link around the loop.
- Note all three numbers, or keep the old chain's box, which prints them.
- Match a replacement to those exact figures before buying.
If the bar stamp is worn smooth from use, you can often still read the pitch from the spacing of the drive links against a known chain, or take the saw to a dealer who can measure it. The drive-link count is the one number you should never estimate — count it physically, because being one or two links out means the chain will not close around the bar and sprocket or will hang loose with no adjustment left.
Which replacement chains fit the Stihl MS 250?
Replacement chains for the MS 250 come from Stihl and from the aftermarket, as long as they match the saw's pitch, gauge, and drive-link count. Stihl's own chains and Oregon equivalents are the common choices, and the table below lists typical matches by bar length.The typical configurations for the popular bar lengths are shown below; confirm against your own saw before ordering.
| Bar length | Pitch | Gauge | Drive links | Common Oregon match |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 16 in | .325 in | .063 in | ~67 | 22BPX067 (.063) or 20BPX for .050 bars |
| 18 in | .325 in | .063 in | ~72 to 74 | 22BPX074 (.063) or 20LPX for .050 bars |
Some MS 250 bars run a .050-inch gauge instead of .063, so the gauge on your bar decides whether you order a .063 chain such as Oregon 22BPX or a .050 chain such as 20BPX. This is why reading the bar stamp matters more than the model name. The Stihl-numbered equivalents fall in the 26 RM family for .325 pitch; whichever brand you choose, the pitch, gauge, and drive-link count must line up with the three numbers you read off your own saw, and the common-match column is a starting point to verify, not a guarantee for every MS 250 ever sold.
Should you use a Stihl OEM or aftermarket chain?
Both Stihl OEM and quality aftermarket chains work on the MS 250, provided the three measurements match. Stihl's own Oilomatic Rapid Micro chain guarantees the correct fit and comes with dealer support, while an Oregon chain in the matching size performs comparably at a lower price.The decision is mostly about preference and price, not compatibility. Owners who value a guaranteed factory match and easy dealer replacement often stick with Stihl chain, while those who sharpen and swap their own chains frequently often choose Oregon for cost and availability. Either way, the pitch, gauge, and drive-link count must be identical to your bar. A sensible middle path for a working saw is to keep one OEM loop and one good aftermarket loop on the shelf, rotating them so there is always a sharp chain ready and the bar wears evenly against two chains rather than one.
How do you replace the chain on an MS 250, step by step?
Replace an MS 250 chain with the saw off and cool and the chain brake released, by removing the two bar nuts and the side cover, lifting off the old chain and bar, then refitting the new chain with the top cutters facing the bar tip. Tension and re-check it before cutting.Change the chain safely with these steps:
- Switch the saw off, let a warm saw cool, and pull the chain brake back to release it so the cover will come off.
- Undo the two bar nuts, lift away the sprocket cover, and note how the tensioner peg sits in the bar hole.
- Lift the bar slightly toward the sprocket to slacken the old chain, then remove the chain and bar.
- Fit the new chain around the sprocket and into the bar groove with the top cutters pointing forward toward the nose, then refit the bar over the studs and engage the tensioner peg.
- Refit the cover and nuts finger-tight, hold the bar nose up, turn the tensioner until the chain is snug, then tighten the nuts fully and confirm the chain pulls freely by hand.
Top up the bar and chain oil, make a few light cuts, then let the saw cool and re-tension, because a new chain stretches as it beds in.
How do you keep an MS 250 chain cutting well?
Keep an MS 250 chain cutting well by sharpening it regularly, holding correct tension, and keeping the bar properly oiled. A sharp chain throws chips rather than dust and cuts with light pressure, so touch up the edge with the right file before it goes truly dull.Correct tension means the chain sits snug against the bar but still pulls freely by hand, and it needs checking often when the chain is new. Feed the chain with the right bar and chain oil, sharpen with the correct file from our sharpening files and tools guide, and follow the routine in our chainsaw sharpening guide. Treat felling and heavy cutting as tasks that demand full PPE and, for large trees, a trained professional. For the .325 chain the MS 250 usually runs, the matching round file is 3/16 inch (4.8 mm), and lowering the depth gauges a touch every few sharpenings keeps the bite consistent as the cutters shorten.
What common MS 250 chain problems should you watch for?
The common MS 250 chain complaints are a chain that keeps loosening, one that cuts in a curve, and one that dulls or smokes quickly — and each has a routine cause rather than a faulty saw. New-chain stretch, uneven sharpening, and a starved oiler explain most of them.Watch for these and their fixes:
- Chain loosens repeatedly: normal break-in stretch on a new loop; re-tension during the first hour, and check the bar is seated on the studs.
- Cuts in a curve: cutters are uneven left to right, or the bar rails are worn; file all cutters to the shortest length and inspect the bar.
- Smokes or discolours: the oiler is starved or set low, or the chain is dull — check the oil line and clean the bar groove.
- Throws fine dust: the chain is dull or the depth gauges are wrong; sharpen and reset the gauges.
- Chain brake will not release the cover: pull the brake fully back before trying to remove the side cover.
Most of these are prevented by the same three habits — sharpen evenly, keep tension right, and keep the oiler feeding — which is exactly the maintenance routine covered in our chainsaw maintenance guide.
