How do you sharpen pruning shears?
Sharpen pruning shears by wiping the blade clean, holding a fine file or diamond stone to the bevelled edge at the factory angle, and drawing it along the cutting blade from base to tip in smooth strokes. On a bypass pruner only the single bevelled blade needs sharpening; the hooked jaw stays as it is.
Work in one direction, following the existing bevel rather than creating a new one, and keep the strokes even so the edge stays straight. A few passes are usually enough to bring back a keen edge, and you can turn the blade over to remove the fine burr with a light stroke or two on the flat side.
What tools do you need to sharpen pruners?
You need a fine sharpening tool, a cleaning rag, and eye and hand protection. The basic kit is listed below.
- A fine file, diamond file, or sharpening stone, or a dedicated pruner sharpener.
- A rag and a little solvent or soapy water to clean sap off the blade first.
- Cut-resistant gloves and safety glasses, since you are working near a keen edge.
- A drop of oil for the pivot and blade once you are finished.
The right files for the job are covered in our sharpening files and tools guide, and a pair of work gloves keeps your hands safe while you hold the blade.
How often should you sharpen pruning shears?
Sharpen pruning shears whenever the cut turns ragged or the blade starts to crush rather than slice, which for a regular gardener might be every few weeks in the growing season. A quick touch-up is faster and easier than a full re-grind, so hone little and often. If the edge is chipped or badly blunted, a quality pruner from Felco or Corona takes a replaceable blade, so a worn edge need not mean a new tool. For choosing a pruner in the first place, see our best hand pruners roundup.
What angle should you sharpen pruning shears at?
Sharpen pruning shears at the blade's original factory bevel, usually somewhere between 20 and 30 degrees, rather than inventing a new angle. Following the existing bevel keeps the edge both keen and strong; a shallower angle cuts more easily but chips, and a steeper one lasts longer but drags through stems.
The simplest way to hold the angle is to lay the file flat against the existing bevel until it sits evenly on the metal, then keep that attitude through every stroke. Most bypass pruners are ground on one face only, so you are matching a single, visible bevel — a real advantage over guessing. If you cannot see the bevel clearly, colour it with a marker pen and take one light stroke: the file removes ink exactly where it is meeting the steel, showing whether you are on the bevel or riding too high or low.
How do you sharpen a bypass pruner differently from an anvil pruner?
Sharpen a bypass pruner on its single curved blade only, and sharpen an anvil pruner on the central blade that meets the flat plate. The number and location of the sharpened edges differ, which is why identifying your pruner type before you start matters.
On a bypass pruner the curved blade does all the cutting as it passes the hooked jaw, so you hone that one bevel and leave the jaw untouched. On an anvil pruner the blade closes onto a flat anvil plate, so you sharpen the blade's edge and keep the plate clean and flat — a nicked or dished plate makes even a keen edge cut poorly. In both cases work from the base of the blade toward the tip, following the curve, and keep the strokes even so the edge stays true. For the head-type differences behind this, see our anvil versus bypass pruning shears guide.
How do you remove the burr and finish the edge?
Remove the burr by turning the blade over and taking one or two light strokes along the flat back face, which lifts off the fine wire of metal that sharpening pushes to the far side of the edge. Leaving the burr on makes a blade feel sharp but tear on the first cut.
Draw the flat of the blade lightly across the stone or file, keeping it flush so you take off the burr without grinding a second bevel onto the back. Check the edge by looking along it in good light: a sharp edge shows no bright reflective line, while a dull or burred one catches the light. Finish by wiping the blade clean and adding a drop of oil to the edge and pivot to hold off rust, using the right sharpening files and tools and a pair of work gloves to keep your hands clear of the fresh edge.
